Pairing Oaky Wines with Food

Very few beverages use a tree in the creation of its taste and flavor. But wine happens to be one of the few exceptions where the use of wood, and more specifically, oak wood, plays a significant role in crafting the beverage.

In this Sip & Swirl edition, we’re going to dive into a few things that make the use of oak in wine’s manufacture so unique.

Why Oak?

During Season 1, Episode 9 of “Voices of the Vine,” (Everyone Loves a Good Barrel Room, but Where do Barrels Come From?) Virginia and I discussed a brief history of oak in wine processing, storage, and transport. During the early AD centuries, the Ancient Romans were one of the first civilizations that required the regular transport of wine over land. Back in Roman days, the roads traveled on were not smooth and covered with concrete.

No.

Land travel was rough, often causing cargo to get jostled around. Wine that was stored in clay amphora, the original wine vessels for many ancient civilizations, could easily break. When the Romans discovered use of wooden barrels to store wine, they noted the potential of better land travel while transporting wine. Wooden barrels did not break as easily as amphora. Thus, the Romans quickly switched to storing and transporting wine in these more versatile holding vessels.

But it still begs the question, why oak? Why not walnut? Or maple? Or wood from pine?

Historically, it appears as if several types of wood have been used over time to hold various liquids and goods. The oak wood is a good fit for liquids because the grained texture associated with oak is tight enough that it can swell and seal without the use of glues. This property allows oak barrels to hold liquids, like wine, without there being any leaks from the barrel.

The grain of the wood is the texture and orientation associated with the fibers of the tree. Wood Magazine provides a good illustration of the various types of grain descriptions associated with wood. In general, most oak trees follow a straight grain pattern.

Furthermore, grain tightness is often discussed amongst winemakers when selecting oak barrels to age wines. Remember those pictures in elementary school where we learned about tree rings? Grain tightness is related to the thickness of those rings. The French oak trees are known for their tighter (smaller thickness) grains while American oak trees have a loose or open (wider thickness) grain. Tighter grains contribute a higher percentage of aromatic components to a wine that ages against the wood. Open grains contribute a higher proportion of tannins (providing astringency or bitterness) to a wine that ages against a wood. Despite these differences between the two types of oak, a wine aged in barrel will get both an aromatic/flavor and mouthfeel (astringency/bitterness) alteration regardless of grain tightness or width.

Oak Flavor Contributions

The internal portion of the barrel is charred or toasted, which alters the tannin structure and aroma/flavor components that are in the wood. Both can be extracted into the wine as the wine sits in barrel.

The flavors that come from the toasted wood are known as the “bouquet,” and they have unique descriptors associated with them. Some common flavor descriptors associated with oak toasting include:

• Vanilla
• Roasted Marshmallow
• Toasted Oak
• Coffee
• Cocoa
• Toffee
• Toasted Bread
• Molasses
• Smokey
• Roasted Nut
• Caramel
• Brown Sugar or Burnt Sugar
• Butterscotch
• Spicy (Clove, Allspice, Cinnamon, and Nutmeg)
• And a “Sweet” essence.

Many of these flavors cannot come from the fruit itself. Their presence is an indication the wine may have been in contact with oak during the wine’s production.

Wines Aged in Oak

Oak barrels primarily come into play during a process called “wine aging.” Wine aging is a period of time in which the wine is stored in the barrel. When put in oak, the wine will extract some of the aroma/flavor components from the barrel as well as the tannins that come from the oak barrel. Furthermore, because wood is porous, there is a small, but relatively unpredictable amount of oxygen that seeps into the wine.

The aging process provides an opportunity for the mouthfeel of the wine to change. Additionally, the aromas and flavors change. Not only are aromas and flavors extracted from the oak, but the aromas and flavors that developed during fermentation also change. These changes in the wine’s original aroma and flavor profile come from the slow integration of oxygen, which physically eliminates some of those aromas and flavors or alters the chemical structure of others. The changes can also arise as the oak flavors are extracted. As new aromas and flavors integrate into the wine, the sum of what was there to start, plus the newly extracted flavors, can create entirely unique aromas and flavors to the wine as well.

Oak… Alternatives

Psyche!

There are no oak alternatives. Winemakers only use oak species of wood to age wine. But also, there are “oak alternatives” that winemakers can use during wine production, and these are alternatives to the use of barrels.

Oak alternatives or oak adjuncts are smaller pieces of toasted or untoasted oak that get submerged into the wine. Like oak barrels, oak adjuncts provide flavor and tannin contributions depending on the toasting level and type of oak.

With barrel aging, barrels are filled with wine. Over time the wine seeps into the porous grains of the oak, extracting flavor and tannins depending on the age of the barrel and the depth the wine can seep into the oak. In contrast, oak adjuncts are smaller pieces of oak that get submerged directly into the wine. There are several advantages to oak adjuncts over oak barrels, including the fact that flavor and tannin extraction is quicker (weeks compared to months in barrel), they are less expensive, and their flavors can be more controlled. For some types of oak adjuncts, winemakers can literally select the flavor descriptors associated with the oak adjunct they select. This allows a winemaker to be more mindful over what flavors from the oak will positively complement the wine variety or wine style.

Pairing Oaky Wines with Food

In Season 1, Episode 10 of “Voices of the Vine” (For the Love of Oak), Virginia and I shared some of our favorite oaky wine brands in various styles of wine: Oaky Chardonnays, Napa Valley Cabernets, Australian Shirazes, and Rioja wines. But wines that exhibit stronger oak aromas and flavors can be difficult to pair with foods and still taste, well, good.

When it comes to oaky wines, I tend to lean on two primary guidelines for pairing with foods. These guidelines really come down to how the food is prepared as opposed to what the food is, per se. What are those guidelines?

1. The food should be caramelized (but not dominated by sweetness),
2. Or the food should be grilled/charred.

In general, the oaky flavors from oak extraction pair well with smokey, grilled, or charred foods. Perhaps this is related to the oak’s processing: charred wood pairs well with charred food. The one minor exception to these rules may be Oaky Chardonnays. But I would say it really depends with Oaky Chardonnays. While an Oaky Chardonnay may not be a great fit with, let’s say, a grilled steak, I can still see it paired well with grilled pork loin or pork chops and many wood-fired pizzas, which can exhibit a char.

Oaky Chardonnay Food Pairings

As someone from the Eastern seaboard, one of my favorite pairings with Oaky Chardonnays are lobster rolls. The fatty, rich flavor from the lobster is an excellent contrast to the fruity-oaky mixture found in many Oaky Chardonnays. If you don’t love lobster rolls, lobster mac n’ cheese is also a really great pairing. The richness and fatty suppleness from the mac n’ cheese can easily match the richness associated with Oaky Chardonnays.

Another favorite food to pair with Oaky Chardonnay is Thanksgiving turkey and roasted squash dishes (especially butternut squash, spaghetti squash, and acorn squash dishes). It’s true that Oaky Chardonnays may not pair well with all of the fixings at the Thanksgiving table, but the turkey is often relatively bland in flavor with stronger pops of spice or fat from the skin, depending on how the turkey is prepared. This blandness is often a great selection next to a relatively dynamic and oaky white wine. Furthermore, if your family is prone to including squash dishes during the Thanksgiving meal, they are another great component to pair against an Oaky Chardonnay. Squash dishes follow the caramelization principle mentioned above. The natural flavor associated with some squashes has a caramelized component that matches well with the vanilla/butterscotch/toasted oak flavors in Oaky Chardonnay.

When it comes to wood-fired pizzas or flatbreads, I think that any combination that includes caramelized onions or mushrooms is going to pair well against an Oaky Chardonnay. Caramelized onions obviously fit into the caramelization principle. Appetizers like crostini with ricotta, hot honey, and caramelized onion go well against an Oaky Chardonnay. In fact, caramelized onions with many different foods are natural pairings with Oaky Chardonnays. Here’s a few examples:

• Potato and Parsnip Rosti with Caramelized Onion Topping
• Caramelized Onion Quiche with Shredded Mozzarella Cheese and Bacon
• Caramelized Onion, Spinach, and Roasted Portabella Mushroom Quiche
• Roasted Apple, Bacon, and Caramelized Onion Crostini
• Caramelized Onion Tart
• Roasted Corn or Roasted Sweet Potato with Smoked Bacon and Caramelized Onion
• Roasted Eggplant and Caramelized Onion with Farro Salad (optional additions: pine nuts)
• Roasted Turkey Sandwich with Caramelized Onions

And, finally, cheese. I prefer blander, less acidic cheese with an Oaky Chardonnay. Some of my favorite pairings include ricotta, brie, and mozzarella. Sometimes, I even like melted, browned mozzarella on Tortilla chips or a toasted croissant and pair it with an Oaky Chardonnay. Simplicity is truly the wine’s friend when it comes to Oaky Chardonnays.

Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon and Australian Shiraz Food Pairings

Let’s return to the charred/grilled principle, which tends to be a winning combination with these two New World styles of oaked wine. I frequently make a smoked shredded pork using liquid smoke in a crock pot (that we used for sandwiches) that is a great combination with Napa Valley Cabernet wines. The smokey essence from the pork pairs well against the oaky flavors associated with the Cabernet wines.

Barbecue, in general, is a great pair against Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon wines. This can include anything from Barbecue Short Ribs, Barbecue Grilled Chicken, Shredded Barbecue Pork, Barbecue Shrimp Kabobs, and even Barbecue, Blackened Salmon can pair well against these wines.

For Napa Cabernets, a Steak or Pork Loin covered in a Red Wine Sauce is also an easy combination. The key here is the red wine sauce, which will match the weight and flavor profile associated with the Napa Valley Cabernet wine.

The most simplistic food pairing, though, is a good meaty Hamburger. Hamburgers with Caramelized Onions, Smokey Bacon, and Rich Cheddar Cheese against a Napa Valley Cabernet wine… simply… chef’s kiss. I think you could also get away with some roasted mushrooms on that hamburger and still call it a delicious food pairing.

Australian Shiraz has a spicier element to it that is more appropriate for some other food pairings. The spice and eucalyptus flavors in Australian Shiraz can go swimmingly against many lamb-based foods. Lamb Meatballs, Moussaka, Lamb Burgers, and Grilled Lambchops are all great foods to consider pairing against an Australian Shiraz.

If lamb is not your thing, I actually think Australian Shiraz pairs well against many beef-based Meatball recipes and Meatloaf. Meatloaf has the potential to hit the caramelized principle if the outer component is broiled or charred a bit. A Meatball Sub with Au Jus or Red Wine Sauce and Melted Provolone could pair well against an Australian Shiraz. (Bonus if you add caramelized onions.) Even ground beef or ground lamb Shepherd’s Pie is an excellent food selection against this oaky wine.

Bacon pairs pretty well against many Australian Shiraz wines. So if something is smothered with bacon, I would take the safe bet and assume it will pair well with your Australian Shiraz selection.

And for that simplistic food-pairing selection, Hot Dogs. I love a good hot dog paired with an Australian Shiraz. I saw this pairing suggested once and I’ve never looked back. Again, I think you will be more satisfied with this pairing if you add some fixings like barbecue sauce or caramelized onions to your hot dog, but in general… great pairing. This combination illustrates that food pairings don’t have to be fancy. Just mindful.

Rioja Red Wine Food Pairings

As we explained in the “Voices of the Vine” podcast Episode 10, Rioja red wines are really oak-focused in terms of how oak aging is part of developing Rioja wines. Rioja red wines, however, are more strongly associated with an Old World style of wine. This means the oak flavors are not as dynamic or “in your face” compared to some of the New World styles described above.

Truthfully, I think you can summarize all of the food pairings for Napa Valley Cabernet and Australian Shiraz wines and also pair them with a Rioja red wine. The reason for this is because Riojas tend to come across as more “food friendly.” The flavors, astringency, and sourness are easier to pair against many different dishes.

However, Rioja red wines also have some additional pairings that make it unique from the New World oaky wines. I love the idea of a Rioja with a Kale, Bean, and Bacon/Chorizo Soup. The richness and smokiness from this soup will hold up quite well against a Rioja wine. In fact, many roasted bean-based dishes are often recommended to pair with Rioja red wines. The earthy/nutty attributes from many beans tend to pair well with Rioja red wines. This could include a Roasted Stew or Chili that also contains a hefty amount of roasted beans.

Traditional Mexican or Spanish cuisine like Enchiladas, Tacos (pick any filling here), and Loaded Nachos are also great pairings with Rioja red wines. The wines can usually hold up, spice-wise, against these foods. Mole Sauce, especially, is a great contrast to Rioja red wines. And if you have the option, don’t forget about Paella. I know most people aren’t going to make paella at home, but if you see this at a Spanish restaurant, I highly recommend it with a Rioja red wine (or a Rioja-based Sangria).

Now that we are all hungry… I hope that you enjoy some of our oaked wine selections and find a great food pairing to go with them that leaves you satisfied. If you’d love to share your selection and/or food pairing with us, please drop us a comment or DM on Instagram (@dgwinemaking). I’d love to hear what foods you enjoy pairing with these wines!